Journal of Billings Grinnell Almy
Following is the continuation from the last Newsletter of the journal of Billings Grinnell Almy.
Sunday, August 14, 1898
Boat moved on about 9:00 a.m. Fog very dense yet, fog whistles all around. Cleared up about
11:00. Beachy Cliffs first seen. Coast in sight most of time till 3:30. Passed Dover and left Eng.
behind. A long dull Sunday except while in sight of land. In channel counted 22 ships at once.
From 4:00 p.m. on ship at its very best speed, want to reach Flussing? before fog and darkness.
Wrote to FFA and Ada.
Monday, August 15, 1898
Anchored at Flussing? overnight. Started up the river at 9:00. Reached Antwerp about 1 o'clock.
Quite interested Dutch scenery. Dikes, tile and thatched roofs, Dutch windmills. J. met me at the
pier. Saw Cathedral and some of Antwerp's narrow streets. Went out to the Zoological Gardens,
hurried thro' to get back to supper. Birds and animals galore. Good. After supper walked down
Tuesday, August 16, 1898
Left Antwerp at 10. By rail 3rd class thro' Rotterdam to The Hague. Arrived at about 1:30, left
valise at Hotel L'Angleterre. Visited picture gallery thro' Birmenhof. After dinner (5:00) took
street car for Swearingen Beach of North Sea. Sea "urchins", wading. Wooden shoes. Fine ride
thru Forest Street on top of street car. Rembrandt, Stein Potter's paintings very good.
Wednesday, August 17, 1898
Left The Hague at 9:12, to Leyden at 9:31. Walked round great deal. Visited Museum of "Casts",
Botanical Gardens, Physiological and Physical Laboratories and the collection of mummies,
sarcophagae, Indian relics, etc. "Wedding at high noon", Stadthus. Left at 4:30, reached
Amsterdam at 6:20. Couldn't find any restaurant, took till 8:00 to find one. Went down the
"Broadway", Kalver Str. Home and to bed. "Dutchy" sure. Nice store display and great
preparation for coronation of Queen.
Thursday, August 18, 1898
Took in Amsterdam. Up around the docks (harbor) Ruyter's House, Crying Tower, other tower.
Jewish quarter, House of Spinoza. Two truck and second-hand markets. Fish market. Down
around thro' newer town. Good. Via East side to Ryzko(?) Museum. Gross Artige. Naval and
Military Room, Ecclesiastical and Industrial development. Very large picture gallery. Building
occupying 3 acres. Left at 4:00 for Cologne. Valises inspected for 3rd time. Coln at 10:18 p.m.
Friday, August 19, 1898
Looked up bicycle and definitely located at hotel. Didn't see much but town in forenoon. Packed
up and left Koln at about 3:00 p.m. Rode to Bonn by 5:00. Left wheels at hotel and went up thro'
halls of the university. Long barn-like building. Fine view of Rhine from Alle Zoll. Statue of
Beethoven, Van Arndt. Didn't follow Rhine very closely. Bonn very pretty town. Run for () day
Saturday, August 20, 1898
Saw the Cathedral at Cologne in forenoon. Took the trip up into the town - Very good view of
the town and Rhine. Immense columns and windows. Large area and lofty height. Queen Louise
quite large gallery. Got and unpacked wheel. Rainstorms that evening with lightning and thunder.
Sunday, August 21, 1898
Slept late. Left Bonn about 10:00 a.m. for Coblenz. Soon ran into Rhine scenery. Followed river
more or less closely all day. Castle's ruins, etc. Made one climb to Roland-Bogen. Very warm and
dry. Perpendicular outcropping of rocks. Grape vineyards and terraced hillsides. Sun couldn't be
seen at 3 p.m. Rhyne banks and hills so high. Reached Coblenz at 5:00, tired. Went down to quay
along Rhyne. Gravel - no shade - monument to Wm. I Ehren Breitstein opposite Mozelle - Rhine
great. Pontoon bridge. 39 mi.
Monday, August 22, 1898
Koblenz to Mayrence. 57 miles. Followed Rhine very closely all day. Prettiest day out but very
warm. Road very deceptive. Level appeared downgrade. Uphill appeared level. Rather a hard run
up the Rhine. Old castle ruins by the score. Rheinfels, Lorelei, Rheinstein, (Immensee), etc.
Reached "Bingers on the Rhine" at 12:30. Took dinner. In afternoon. Came to a long hill about a
mile and a half long up from the Rhine Valley onto level farmland. Down to Mayrence.
Tuesday, August 23, 1898
Mayrence to Heidelburg, 58 mi. Ate lunch at Worms, saw Luther Monument. Heidelb'g about
5:00. Went up through the old Schloss before supper. Heidelburg very pretty town, trip not so
interesting. Rode across more level farming region. Crossed river at Mannheim, "the city laid out
in squares". More coasting on wheel and work up the hills. Wrote a letter to Ada.
Wednesday, August 24, 1898
Visited University buildings, especially the Physical Lab and mineralogical collection. To reading
room for an hour and a half. First American paper seen for over four weeks. (Paris editions).
After dinner rode to Durbach for supper and stopped at night at Ethugen. 40 miles.
Thursday, August 25, 1898
Rode to Baden-Baden by 10:00 o'clock. Thro' town but got all mixed on directions. Leaving town
I turned off down an alley. I went ahead, expecting to turn and meet him* in next street. That was
five hours ago, and I haven't seen him since, although I have ridden 12 miles looking for him.
Located at present on the alley. Rode on for Freiburg at 5:00 p.m. Stopped overnight at Buhe to
the consternation and amusement of the hotel proprietor and Splogers. Rode 43 miles.
* Transcriber's note: "him" is brother John.
(to be continued)
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